The ferry arrived at Tomokomai port at 0558 and it arrived ahead of schedule. I was incredibly excited to get to Hokkaido. I took route 235 into 36/337 then into 36 which went into Sapporo. There were quite a few JSDF vehicles on the road and I remember one of the drivers give me a friendly wave on passing.
A remarkable bakery snack from Japan, these cantaloupe buns actually taste like cantaloupe with the center colored like the meat of the fruit, and were a recent snack food fad with different brands in the various conbini's.
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| 2nd Breakfast |
The initial route in Tomokomai was well marked with the cycle path being painted in a cerulean blue. As it got near Chitose airport, Sapporo's Main Airport, the path widened but started getting riddled with scattered gravel and at one point, I stopped and saw a large rusty bolt on the ground. I would like to think that the bolt fell off of a vehicle instead of some random aircraft flying overhead (!). The commercial traffic passing on the street was a little deafening when heavy. Mainly because of the random gravel, I would not recommend riding this route at speed at night.
Arriving at Ten-to-ten Hokkaido Hostel just a bit early, there was no place to lock my bike but with the help of one of the hostesses, I was able to secure it right below the illuminated hostel display bicycle so it looked like it was part of it. Still a little concerned because the area was part of downtown, I locked it up as the hostess said it would be alright as everyone apparently parks their bicycles outside.
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| Sapporo Trolley |
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| Bridge on the Toyohiro River |
I left hoping to get to Konpira Park camping ground taking 368 onto 12 going north. It was a very straight shot with a little traffic and a little over 110 kilometers. For some reason, maybe I was just enjoying the nice day and weather I fell a little short and stumbled on to the Takikawa Michi-no-eki near sunset. With the lost campsite resulting in wild camping in a forest with bat sounds screeching in the overhead trees still fresh in my mind south of Fukushima, I thought it better not to take a chance in searching for a campsite with very little light left. The rest stop had an ample roofed common area with plenty of flat benches and the bathroom was modern, heated and well lit with automatic illuminating lights, Ice cream & beverage vending machines There was very little traffic using it since it was still fairly early in the spring. I decided to pitch my tent out back behind a tool shed so as to let truckers and late night drivers use the rest area to relax in since it was quite a nice stop. I slept soundly in the back out of earshot from vehicle noises and headlights.
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| My route Hokkaido 2017 |
The next day I headed out to try and reach a well known ARF in Rumoi only to find out that you needed to book at least 24 hours in advance in order to stay there. With the day still quite beautiful, I decided to continue north on the coastal road searching for some other popular campsites. I arrived at another michi no eki and with a young Japanese Cycletourist set up camp outside under the long awning after the place closed. The next day I reached another michi-no-eki after getting food at a conbini When it started to rain, I wasn't as enthusiastic to leave a nice dry building in a downpour. I stayed in the vending machine area as it rained all night with the managers OK. The next day dawned and it was still raining though not as heavily.
(NOTE: this is a large format video which I would caution for those with limited bandwidth)
With the rain and grey clouds I decided to avoid the coastal roads and possible blustery headwinds and took route 40 inland towards Wakkanai. It rained on and off but the road was new, straight and smooth with many a cow farm off to the side and minimal traffic.
I got to Wakkanai and immediately noted it was different with the road signs in Japanese, Romanji and Cyrillic! The Sakhalin Islands are a mere 370 miles from Wakkanai. On a clear day you can see Russia from Cape Soya. The city was a mix of a modern and seasonal outpost town. I loved wandering through the streets much of it empty as it was still windy and a bit cold. I checked in to Hotel Saharin and browsed downtown near the modern shopping center and bus terminal and spotted two familiar bikes locked up outside leaving my kiwi friends I met in Kyoto a little note of hello. Later, I received an e-mail invite to join them at the Midori Rider house to ride up to Cape Soya. The next day, that little group ride (3 of them as another Kiwi 'Pete' had joined) was the highlight of my ride through Japan. It was enjoyable, sunny and a lot of fun having coffee at a local shop with my Kiwi friends cooking up a delicious vegan meal later on with all the produce and food they carried in their panniers. Eventually they would depart to visit one of the local islands as I would bag my bike and bus into Sapporo to figure out my final logistics for departure.
Postscript
Japan is a remarkable country that has incredible scenery in some of the most compact set of islands in Asia. If you can handle the hills and climbs, it is one of the most ideal places to ride a bicycle and go on a tour with plenty of hostels & guesthouses throughout. The road infrastructure is constantly being updated and it has a transit system that times it's stops to the second but the most significant difference is it's people. They go to lengths to make everyone feel welcome which seems to bring out the best character in visitors from all over the world or maybe it's just that people who travel have an open mind and better attitude about life.
UPDATE 9/2020: Though not having the bicycle infrastructure of Europe, Japan is still comparably safe to bicycle through as it is a common form of transportation and drivers are mostly safe and very considerate towards bicyclists.
As the 2020 Olympics in Tokyo and other city venues roll around, Japan will get more crowded with tourists and viewers excited to see upcoming sports events. No doubt many will want to see and be enthralled by the beauty and culture of this country. Though you will not be denied entry to cycle during this period, there will be added delays and security procedures and the cities hosting sports events will be dense with pedestrians. It will probably be easier to enjoy as a pedestrian taking advantage of the clean, efficient and comfortable public transit available throughout the major metropolitan areas and many hostels offer rental bicycles for those yearning to satisfy their wanderlust on pedals.
UPDATE 9/2020: The 2020 Olympics was cancelled due to the COVID-19 pandemic and the possibility of having it in 2021 is in question.
NOTE: The Olympics were resumed in 2021 with little to no fans in attendance.
UPDATE 9/2022: The restrictions for traveling to Japan are easing with vaccinations and immunities but there are still some restrictions in places and locales. Masks are still required inside enclosed and public areas (use logic if unsure). I would recommend you check with your state department and Japan services about what restrictions are in place. Ferry service has been severely curtailed with service going outside Japan not in service at all. No notice as to when this service will resume.
Notes
Distance pedaled:
Okinawa: 87.95 km / 54.64 miles
Kyushu: 591.1 km / 367.3 miles
Honshu: 1565.91 km / 973 miles
Hokkaido: 460.78km / 286.31miles
Total: 2705.74km / 1681.26 miles
With the exception of the Shinkansen train ride from Nagoya to Odawara, the full distance traveled was pedaled on the bicycle including all hills and mountain passes encountered (Yes, I had to use the FULL range of gears!)
Performed excellent as a road touring Bicycle switching out the the wide knobby tires to 35cm Panaracer Tourguards. Tires were compliant and confidant on wet downhills. TRP Hylex Hydraulic brakes were excellent all weather brakes full confidence and predictable consistent braking even in heavy rain. Replaced front brake pad once in Hokkaido.
NOTE: The OEM Elite Duster rims are TLR compatible. If you use standard tubed clincher tires, the seams need to be properly seated/even throughout the rim on both sides. Refer to your LBS if you are not sure about this.
Equipment
Bicycle: Trek 920 (2015)Performed excellent as a road touring Bicycle switching out the the wide knobby tires to 35cm Panaracer Tourguards. Tires were compliant and confidant on wet downhills. TRP Hylex Hydraulic brakes were excellent all weather brakes full confidence and predictable consistent braking even in heavy rain. Replaced front brake pad once in Hokkaido.
NOTE: The OEM Elite Duster rims are TLR compatible. If you use standard tubed clincher tires, the seams need to be properly seated/even throughout the rim on both sides. Refer to your LBS if you are not sure about this.
UPDATE 9/2020: On a later tour, the rubber separated and split at the bead on the rim from a possible myriad of reasons. (non-impact/abrasion) Make sure you check your brakes and tires before going on ANY long downhill. This goes for any brand tire.
Panniers: Blackburn Barrier rear
Fully waterproof. In 2016 one of the plastic rack attachments developed a small crack and a small retaining spring in a 'C-clip' from the cross strap failed. Blackburn quickly processed a replacement. Capacity 20L
Panniers: Blackburn Barrier rear
Fully waterproof. In 2016 one of the plastic rack attachments developed a small crack and a small retaining spring in a 'C-clip' from the cross strap failed. Blackburn quickly processed a replacement. Capacity 20L
UPDATE 9/2020: In a later tour one of the rear panniers started coming apart at the vulcanized (?) seams. Blackburn was unable to issue a replacement until my return stateside, so I replaced both (Yes, I threw away one good pannier-I'm a stickler about symmetry and properness!) from a local sports store chain.
HandleBar Bag: Blackburn Barrier Handle bar bag
I have mixed feelings about these. It is fully waterproof. It is a good place to store valuables and quickly un-clip to carry with you. It mounts a little too high on the handlebar removing the real estate of the handlebar to mount lights and cameras. It has a tendency to 'bounce' on bumps and rough ground having anything inside bounce out of the bag even if the top is semi-closed. The small see through window section on the top cover cannot fit a smartphone that has a case/cover. The side pocket that stores the shoulder strap is too small making it a pain to store the strap after clipping the bag back on the bike. The inner net pockets are not durable and tear out easily. Capacity 7.5 L
Dry Bags: Alpkit Airlock xtra 8L
Excellent design.
Light Set: Bontrager Ion/Flare RT system light set. Front/Back.
As noted in the text, this system was problematic in Japan. It was not one of the sku# on recall. I would get flickering 'blinks' during its use at night and the fully charged front light would drain after about 3 hours. During the day, I would also notice that the front headlight would turn itself on automatically. Making me wonder if there was a radio frequency in Japan that was activating it. The rear RT light had a flimsy rubber cover over the Mini USB charging port which would easily open resulting in water inside the light shorting it out temporarily during heavy rain. There were several nights where I would still be riding and the front light would drain out. I attempted to replace it at a Bontrager dealer in Japan but by the time I got the needed paperwork emailed to me, I was north of Tokyo which is bereft of Trek Bontrager dealerships. In Sapporo, bought a back up Lezyne 350 XL light. Back home, Bontrager replaced the full system. I noticed the rear light cover has been redesigned.
POST SCRIPT NOTE: I was able to test the replacement RT Wireless light set later in the same area. The set performed without fault, Battery charge appeared stable and held a much longer charge. There were no unknown automatic switching on of lights anymore. One minor caveat, I recently went to recharge the front light and opening the bottom rubber gasket tore the rubber attachment. The design to keep from loosing the cap in the darkness is flawed but it still closes and seals fine. Bontrager also upped the strength of the front light from the original 700 lumens to 800 lumens.
HandleBar Bag: Blackburn Barrier Handle bar bag
I have mixed feelings about these. It is fully waterproof. It is a good place to store valuables and quickly un-clip to carry with you. It mounts a little too high on the handlebar removing the real estate of the handlebar to mount lights and cameras. It has a tendency to 'bounce' on bumps and rough ground having anything inside bounce out of the bag even if the top is semi-closed. The small see through window section on the top cover cannot fit a smartphone that has a case/cover. The side pocket that stores the shoulder strap is too small making it a pain to store the strap after clipping the bag back on the bike. The inner net pockets are not durable and tear out easily. Capacity 7.5 L
Dry Bags: Alpkit Airlock xtra 8L
Excellent design.
Light Set: Bontrager Ion/Flare RT system light set. Front/Back.
As noted in the text, this system was problematic in Japan. It was not one of the sku# on recall. I would get flickering 'blinks' during its use at night and the fully charged front light would drain after about 3 hours. During the day, I would also notice that the front headlight would turn itself on automatically. Making me wonder if there was a radio frequency in Japan that was activating it. The rear RT light had a flimsy rubber cover over the Mini USB charging port which would easily open resulting in water inside the light shorting it out temporarily during heavy rain. There were several nights where I would still be riding and the front light would drain out. I attempted to replace it at a Bontrager dealer in Japan but by the time I got the needed paperwork emailed to me, I was north of Tokyo which is bereft of Trek Bontrager dealerships. In Sapporo, bought a back up Lezyne 350 XL light. Back home, Bontrager replaced the full system. I noticed the rear light cover has been redesigned.
POST SCRIPT NOTE: I was able to test the replacement RT Wireless light set later in the same area. The set performed without fault, Battery charge appeared stable and held a much longer charge. There were no unknown automatic switching on of lights anymore. One minor caveat, I recently went to recharge the front light and opening the bottom rubber gasket tore the rubber attachment. The design to keep from loosing the cap in the darkness is flawed but it still closes and seals fine. Bontrager also upped the strength of the front light from the original 700 lumens to 800 lumens.
UPDATE 9/2020: The light set seems to drain power quicker than the non wireless set (I have both). Also, the rubber recharge port cover to the newer ion800 front is rather flimsy and tears easily. The Lezyne 350 XL light can actually serve as a primary light and being small and lightweight can mount as a directional helmet light as well.
UPDATE 2023: The Ion/Flare RT set and remote still serves me well The rear light seems to lose charge quicker than the front. The remotes battery needed to be replaced and I thought it was busted when I installed the new battery. The Bontrager chat reminded me to keep the button pressed (a reset) for a few seconds after replacing the battery.
Action Camera: Shimano Sports Camera CM-1000
Though small/compact, It lacks any internal stabilization. The original round cover lens easily gets scratched. I replaced it with the flat lens as per Shimano for more normal FOV. Wanting to replace as well as have a spare front lens handy, I tried looking for a retail dealer at every Shimano bannered dealer (Bicycle shop, fishing, sports) I rode through in Japan but none had any spare or accessories.
POSTSCRIPT NOTE: The lens flat cap/cover has some sort of coating (UV?) that started coming off when I thought it was getting somehow scratched. It blurred the videos pretty badly and when I noticed it was a coating (some sections became 'clear') I started using a glass cleaner/polish to remove this coat. It's a little better now but a far cry from the first videos and these rare covers seem quite expensive.
UPDATE: I inquired about the flaking of the coating on the flat lens cover and after a few email exchanges about the details, a Shimano representative sent me a replacement flat lens cover with instructions to use only camera lens cleaners on it.
Action Camera: Shimano Sports Camera CM-1000
Though small/compact, It lacks any internal stabilization. The original round cover lens easily gets scratched. I replaced it with the flat lens as per Shimano for more normal FOV. Wanting to replace as well as have a spare front lens handy, I tried looking for a retail dealer at every Shimano bannered dealer (Bicycle shop, fishing, sports) I rode through in Japan but none had any spare or accessories.
POSTSCRIPT NOTE: The lens flat cap/cover has some sort of coating (UV?) that started coming off when I thought it was getting somehow scratched. It blurred the videos pretty badly and when I noticed it was a coating (some sections became 'clear') I started using a glass cleaner/polish to remove this coat. It's a little better now but a far cry from the first videos and these rare covers seem quite expensive.
UPDATE: I inquired about the flaking of the coating on the flat lens cover and after a few email exchanges about the details, a Shimano representative sent me a replacement flat lens cover with instructions to use only camera lens cleaners on it.
UPDATE 9/2020: To date the lens cover replacement is still good, no flaking.
UPDATE 2023: My CM-1000 still functions(!) but I've lost the audible 'beep' whenever I activate the camera.
Camera: Moto G 3rd gen smartphone
Navigation Apps:
Google Earth/Street View
Used to plan and scout route prior to ride. Be aware that depending on your locale, the roads can and do change. Look at the date/year stamp on the map you are using.
Camera: Moto G 3rd gen smartphone
Navigation Apps:
Google Earth/Street View
Used to plan and scout route prior to ride. Be aware that depending on your locale, the roads can and do change. Look at the date/year stamp on the map you are using.
Maps.me
Simple, good map app. In 2016 I noticed it had a high drain on battery life. It has recently gone through quite a few updates. Can import .kmz files
Simple, good map app. In 2016 I noticed it had a high drain on battery life. It has recently gone through quite a few updates. Can import .kmz files
UPDATE 9/2020: This app has been highly improved and is currently my primary navigational tool. No noticeable drain, updated areas and now includes guides for regions.
UPDATE Late 2023: They started charging for small regions within a country. Discontinued using this app. Managing imported kml/kmz files is still a bit klunky.
Locus Maps Pro.
A very good navigation app with live GPS tracking and ability to map and manually create a route. Has subtle alarm features which let you know when you are straying out of the limit of your route. Cons: Locus Geographical maps have to be purchased and renewed yearly. The GUI might be a bit intimidating to Luddites. Can import .kmz files. Locus now has subscription service (annoying) for maps but maintains a 'classic' version of Locus Maps.
A very good navigation app with live GPS tracking and ability to map and manually create a route. Has subtle alarm features which let you know when you are straying out of the limit of your route. Cons: Locus Geographical maps have to be purchased and renewed yearly. The GUI might be a bit intimidating to Luddites. Can import .kmz files. Locus now has subscription service (annoying) for maps but maintains a 'classic' version of Locus Maps.
Google Maps
Standard worldwide, it can get quite tricky if you don't have an ISP and are using wifi only. It is not available in offline mode in Japan.
Standard worldwide, it can get quite tricky if you don't have an ISP and are using wifi only. It is not available in offline mode in Japan.
UPDATE 2023: I have been told it is now available in offline mode in Japan but have not personally verified this.
Broadband smartphone service
Depending on the contract on your smartphone, you may or may not be able to use the local service. Having T-Mobile one service I had almost no problems accessing wifi or making calls. Be aware that while in Japan, local calls may still be considered a long distanced timed call. In 2017 there were a few areas in SW Honshu where I had no wifi I imagine that this has improved as Japan continually improves it's infrastructure.. The service while there may be stepped down because of hardware incompatibilities, Though Japan now has nationwide 5G network (2023), your service may be downgraded to 3G service again due to hardware. Many combini (convenience stores) and some fast food places have free wifi but you may have to subscribe (and use a translator!) to access this service. All airports have places and even vending machines where you can purchase a sim chip with a timed/capped service. You can also rent a cellphone while in your home country which will be shipped to the first place you stay at.
Electric Charging
Earlier on there were outlets outside combini's but they started covering the plugs. Many of the new and refurbished combini and cafe's that have seating or even benches now have convenient plugs so you can charge your electrics and or power supply while you snack on combini goodness. Alas, with Covid-19 precautions, some seating may be closed. All hostels, ryokan, business hotels have convenient outlets in or nearby your sleeping unit. Japanese outlets accept plugs similar to US outlets but use 100V as opposed to 120V in the US. European outlets use 230V and will need an adaptor and possibly a step down transformer.
The larger airports in Japan with lounge areas and seating now have outlets and more than a few charging stations accessible to everyone(2023-I'm aware Narita Int'l does).
2023 COVID-19 GUIDELINES Japan
Winter 2023 - Though Japan is fully open with no tourists restrictions, Japan has seen an increase in Covid-19 cases as the virus mutates. However many citizens and employees continue wearing masks at their place of employment and in public areas.
Covid-19 is still prevalent and continues to mutate. If you have malaise, fever and or a bad cough, please refrain from travel and please wear masks as a preventative measure and a courtesy to others around you. Be aware that the Covid-19 vaccines wane with time and the newest booster for the latest Covid-19 variants is available now in the United States.
The Covid -19 guidelines are constantly in a state of flux so keep up with your embassy alerts and please adhere to restrictions and guidelines of individual businesses, public buildings and when using public and private transportation. Be healthy, be safe!
As per the U.S. CDC and US Department of State, (Spring, 2023) The country of Japan is at 'Level 1 - Exercise Normal Precautions.'
As per the Government of Japan, U.S. Citizens will be allowed entry. You may be asked to show a record of your Covid-19 vaccinations and boosters and flight layovers at different airports may have different restrictions. I recommend to have the latest boosters for your own personal safety.
I had a link from the Japan National Tourism Organization but they indicated after I had asked permission, that they allowed only "corporations and organizations at present" to post the link. It had Government measures, 24/7 Multilingual Medical Info support, travel safety tips and temporary closures of attractions and festivals. Hmm, I guess you'll have to look it up yourself, sorry about that!
POST NOTE
This Blogspot travel diary I post and update totally free of charge. I get no commissions from where I go or what I review. All I ask is that you try and leave as minimal a footprint wherever you go in your travels, maybe even leave it cleaner then when you arrived.
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