Full Route Map 2017

Table of Contents

CONTENTS

 Introduction Preparing Packing

 Flights

Okinawa

Naha to Nago

Guest House to Motobu Port

Sailing from Okinawa to Kyushu

Kagoshima

Southern Kyushu

Rain comes with the territory

Izumi Stations and Trains

Izumi Cherry Blossoms

Tsunagi and Tamana

Nagasu-Taira Ferry Pedaling into Nagasaki

Nagasaki trolleys

Nagasaki outbound

Continuing North

Fukuoka to Kitakyushu

Shimonoseki to Hagi

Hagi to Tsuwano

Tsuwano to Iwakuni

Hiroshima and Cycling towards Kure

Kure to Mihara Sunami to Sawa Ferry

Shimanami Kaido and through Shikoku

Takamatsu Kobe Osaka

Yodo river path to Kyoto and onto the Tokai-do road

Tokai-do road to Nagoya

Shinkansen to Odawara Oiso to Fuchu

Fuchu to Saitama

Shimotsuke to Otawara

Otawara to Sendai Internet Cafes

Morioka to Hachinohe Ferry

Hokaido/Notes/Equipment/COVID-19 Guidelines

Full Route Map

Hokkaido / Notes / Equipment / COVID-19 Guidelines (Spring 2023)

The ferry arrived at Tomokomai port at 0558 and it arrived ahead of schedule. I was incredibly excited to get to Hokkaido. I took route 235 into 36/337 then into 36 which went into Sapporo. There were quite a few JSDF vehicles on the road and I remember one of the drivers give me a friendly wave on passing.

A remarkable bakery snack from Japan, these cantaloupe buns actually taste like cantaloupe with the center colored like the meat of the fruit, and were a recent snack food fad with different brands  in the various conbini's. 

2nd Breakfast

The initial route in Tomokomai was well marked with the cycle path being painted in a cerulean blue. As it got near Chitose airport, Sapporo's Main Airport, the path widened but started getting riddled with scattered gravel and at one point, I stopped and saw a large rusty bolt on the ground. I would like to think that the bolt fell off of a vehicle instead of some random aircraft flying overhead (!). The commercial traffic passing on the street was a little deafening when heavy. Mainly because of the random gravel, I would not recommend riding this route at speed at night.

Arriving at Ten-to-ten Hokkaido Hostel just a bit early, there was no place to lock my bike but with the help of one of the hostesses, I was able to secure it right below the illuminated hostel display bicycle so it looked like it was part of it. Still a little concerned because the area was part of downtown, I locked it up as the hostess said it would be alright as everyone apparently parks their bicycles outside.

Sapporo Trolley

Bridge on the Toyohiro River

I left hoping to get to Konpira Park camping ground taking 368 onto 12 going north. It was a very straight shot with a little traffic and a little over 110 kilometers. For some reason, maybe I was just enjoying the nice day and weather I fell a little short and stumbled on to the Takikawa Michi-no-eki near sunset. With the lost campsite resulting in wild camping in a forest with bat sounds screeching in the overhead trees still fresh in my mind south of Fukushima, I thought it better not to take a chance in searching for a campsite with very little light left. The rest stop had an ample roofed common area with plenty of flat benches and the bathroom was modern, heated and well lit with automatic illuminating lights, Ice cream & beverage vending machines There was very little traffic using it since it was still fairly early in the spring. I decided to pitch my tent out back behind a tool shed so as to let truckers and late night drivers use the rest area to relax in since it was quite a nice stop. I slept soundly in the back out of earshot from vehicle noises and headlights.

My route Hokkaido 2017

The next day I headed out to try and reach a well known ARF in Rumoi only to find out that you needed to book at least 24 hours in advance in order to stay there. With the day still quite beautiful, I decided to continue north on the coastal road searching for some other popular campsites. I arrived at another michi no eki and with a young Japanese Cycletourist set up camp outside under the long awning after the place closed. The next day I reached another michi-no-eki after getting food at a conbini When it started to rain, I wasn't as enthusiastic to leave a nice dry building in a downpour. I stayed in the vending machine area as it rained all night with the managers OK. The next day dawned and it was still raining though not as heavily. 

(NOTE: this is a large format video which I would caution for those with limited bandwidth)

With the rain and grey clouds I decided to avoid the coastal roads and possible blustery headwinds and took route 40 inland towards Wakkanai. It rained on and off but the road was new, straight and smooth with many a cow farm off to the side and minimal traffic.

I got to Wakkanai and immediately noted it was different with the road signs in Japanese, Romanji and Cyrillic!  The Sakhalin Islands are a mere 370 miles from Wakkanai. On a clear day you can see Russia from Cape Soya. The city was a mix of a modern and seasonal outpost town. I loved wandering through the streets much of it empty as it was still windy and a bit cold. I checked in to Hotel Saharin and browsed downtown near the modern shopping center and bus terminal and spotted two familiar bikes locked up outside leaving my kiwi friends I met in Kyoto a little note of hello.  Later, I received an e-mail invite to join them at the Midori Rider house to ride up to Cape Soya. The next day, that little group ride (3 of them as another Kiwi 'Pete' had joined) was the highlight of my ride through Japan. It was enjoyable, sunny and a lot of fun having  coffee at a local shop with my Kiwi friends cooking up a delicious vegan meal later on with all the produce and food they carried in their panniers. Eventually they would depart to visit one of the local islands as I would bag my bike and bus into Sapporo to figure out my final logistics for departure. 

Postscript

Japan is a remarkable country that has incredible scenery in some of the most compact set of islands in Asia. If you can handle the hills and climbs, it is one of the most ideal places to ride a bicycle and go on a tour with plenty of hostels & guesthouses throughout. The road infrastructure is constantly being updated and it has a transit system that times it's stops to the second but the most significant difference is it's people. They go to lengths to make everyone feel welcome which seems to bring out the best character in visitors from all over the world or maybe it's just that people who travel have an open mind and better attitude about life. 

UPDATE 9/2020: Though not having the bicycle infrastructure of Europe, Japan is still comparably safe to bicycle through as it is a common form of transportation and drivers are mostly safe and very considerate towards bicyclists. 

As the 2020 Olympics in Tokyo and other city venues roll around, Japan will get more crowded with tourists and viewers excited to see upcoming sports events. No doubt many will want to see and be enthralled by the beauty and culture of this country.  Though you will not be denied entry to cycle during this period, there will be added delays and security procedures and the cities hosting sports events will be dense with pedestrians. It will probably be easier to enjoy as a pedestrian taking advantage of the clean, efficient and comfortable public transit available throughout the major metropolitan areas and many hostels offer rental bicycles for those yearning to satisfy their wanderlust on pedals. 

UPDATE 9/2020: The 2020 Olympics was cancelled due to the COVID-19 pandemic and the possibility of having it in 2021 is in question. 

NOTE: The Olympics were resumed in 2021 with little to no fans in attendance. 

UPDATE 9/2022: The restrictions for traveling to Japan are easing with vaccinations and immunities but there are still some restrictions in places and locales. Masks are still required inside enclosed and public areas (use logic if unsure).  I would recommend you check with your state department and Japan services about what restrictions are in place. Ferry service has been severely curtailed with service going outside Japan not in service at all. No notice as to when this service will resume.   

Notes

Distance pedaled: 

Okinawa:      87.95 km / 54.64 miles

Kyushu:       591.1   km / 367.3 miles

Honshu:   1565.91 km / 973     miles

Hokkaido:  460.78km / 286.31miles

Total:        2705.74km / 1681.26 miles

With the exception of the Shinkansen train ride from Nagoya to Odawara, the full distance traveled was pedaled on the bicycle including all hills and mountain passes encountered (Yes, I had to use the FULL range of gears!)

Equipment

Bicycle:                Trek 920 (2015)
Performed excellent as a road touring Bicycle switching out the the wide knobby tires to 35cm Panaracer Tourguards. Tires were compliant and confidant on wet downhills. TRP Hylex Hydraulic brakes were excellent all weather brakes full confidence and predictable consistent braking even in heavy rain. Replaced front brake pad once in Hokkaido.
NOTE: The OEM Elite Duster rims are TLR compatible. If you use standard tubed clincher tires, the seams need to be properly seated/even throughout the rim on both sides. Refer to your LBS if you are not sure about this.

UPDATE 9/2020: On a later tour, the rubber separated and split at the bead on the rim from a possible myriad of reasons. (non-impact/abrasion) Make sure you check your brakes and tires before going on ANY long downhill. This goes for any brand tire.

Panniers:             Blackburn Barrier rear
Fully waterproof. In 2016 one of the plastic rack attachments developed a small crack and a small retaining spring in a 'C-clip' from the cross strap failed. Blackburn quickly processed a replacement. Capacity 20L

UPDATE 9/2020: In a later tour one of the rear panniers started coming apart at the vulcanized (?) seams. Blackburn was unable to issue a replacement until my return stateside, so I replaced both (Yes, I threw away one good pannier-I'm a stickler about symmetry and properness!) from a local sports store chain.

HandleBar Bag: Blackburn Barrier Handle bar bag
I have mixed feelings about these. It is fully waterproof. It is a good place to store valuables and quickly un-clip to carry with you. It mounts a little too high on the handlebar removing the real estate of the handlebar to mount lights and cameras. It has a tendency to 'bounce' on bumps and rough ground having anything inside bounce out of the bag even if the top is semi-closed. The small see through window section on the top cover cannot fit a smartphone that has a case/cover. The side pocket that stores the shoulder strap is too small making it a pain to store the strap after clipping the bag back on the bike. The inner net pockets are not durable and tear out easily. Capacity 7.5 L 

Dry Bags:             Alpkit Airlock xtra 8L
Excellent design.


Light Set:             Bontrager Ion/Flare RT system light set. Front/Back.

As noted in the text, this system was problematic in Japan. It was not one of the sku# on recall. I would get flickering 'blinks' during its use at night and the fully charged front light would drain after about 3 hours. During the day, I would also notice that the front headlight would turn itself on automatically. Making me wonder if there was a radio frequency in Japan that was activating it. The rear RT light had a flimsy rubber cover over the Mini USB charging port which would easily open resulting in water inside the light shorting it out temporarily during heavy rain. There were several nights where I would still be riding and the front light would drain out. I attempted to replace it at a Bontrager dealer in Japan but by the time I got the needed paperwork emailed to me, I was north of Tokyo which is bereft of Trek Bontrager dealerships.  In Sapporo,  bought a back up Lezyne 350 XL light. Back home, Bontrager replaced the full system. I noticed the rear light cover has been redesigned.
POST SCRIPT NOTE:  I was able to test the replacement RT Wireless light set later in the same area. The set performed without fault, Battery charge appeared stable and held a much longer charge. There were no unknown automatic switching on of lights anymore. One minor caveat, I recently went to recharge the front light and opening the bottom rubber gasket tore the rubber attachment. The design to keep from loosing the cap in the darkness is flawed but it still closes and seals fine. Bontrager also upped the strength of the front light from the original 700 lumens to 800 lumens.

UPDATE 9/2020: The light set seems to drain power quicker than the non wireless set (I have both). Also, the rubber recharge port cover to the newer ion800 front is rather flimsy and tears easily. The Lezyne 350 XL light can actually serve as a primary light and being small and lightweight can mount as a directional helmet light as well.

UPDATE 2023: The Ion/Flare RT set and remote still serves me well The rear light seems to lose charge quicker than the front. The remotes battery needed to be replaced and I thought it was busted when I installed the new battery. The Bontrager chat reminded me to keep the button pressed (a reset) for a few seconds after replacing the battery.

Action Camera:  Shimano Sports Camera CM-1000
Though small/compact, It lacks any internal stabilization. The original round cover lens easily gets scratched. I replaced it with the flat lens as per Shimano for more normal FOV. Wanting to replace as well as have a spare front lens handy, I tried looking for a retail dealer at every Shimano bannered dealer (Bicycle shop, fishing, sports) I rode through in Japan but none had any spare or accessories. 
POSTSCRIPT NOTE: The lens flat cap/cover has some sort of coating (UV?) that started coming off when I thought it was getting somehow scratched. It blurred the videos pretty badly and when I noticed it was a coating (some sections became 'clear') I started using a glass cleaner/polish to remove this coat. It's a little better now but a far cry from the first videos and these rare covers seem quite expensive.
UPDATE: I inquired about the flaking of the coating on the flat lens cover and after a few email exchanges about the details, a Shimano representative sent me a replacement flat lens cover with instructions to use only camera lens cleaners on it. 

UPDATE 9/2020: To date the lens cover replacement is still good, no flaking.

UPDATE 2023: My CM-1000 still functions(!) but I've lost the audible 'beep' whenever I activate the camera.

Camera:               Moto G 3rd gen smartphone

Navigation Apps: 

Google Earth/Street View
Used to plan and scout route prior to ride. Be aware that depending on your locale, the roads can and do change. Look at the date/year stamp on the map you are using.

Maps.me
Simple, good map app. In 2016 I noticed it had a high drain on battery life. It has recently gone through quite a few updates. Can import .kmz files

UPDATE 9/2020: This app has been highly improved and is currently my primary navigational tool. No noticeable drain, updated areas and now includes guides for regions.

UPDATE Late 2023:  They started charging for small regions within a country. Discontinued using this app. Managing imported kml/kmz files is still a bit klunky.

Locus Maps Pro.
A very good navigation app with live GPS tracking and ability to map and manually create a route. Has subtle alarm features which let you know when you are straying out of the limit of your route. Cons: Locus Geographical maps have to be purchased and renewed yearly. The GUI might be a bit intimidating to Luddites. Can import .kmz files.  Locus now has subscription service (annoying) for maps but maintains a 'classic' version of Locus Maps.

Google Maps
Standard worldwide, it can get quite tricky if you don't have an ISP and are using wifi only. It is not available in offline mode in Japan.

UPDATE 2023: I have been told it is now available in offline mode in Japan but have not personally verified this.

Broadband smartphone service

Depending on the contract on your smartphone, you may or may not be able to use the local service. Having T-Mobile one service I had almost no problems accessing wifi or making calls. Be aware that while in Japan, local calls may still be considered a long distanced timed call. In 2017 there were a few areas in SW Honshu where I had no wifi I imagine that this has improved  as Japan continually improves it's infrastructure.. The service while there may be stepped down because of hardware incompatibilities, Though Japan now has nationwide 5G network (2023), your service may be downgraded to 3G service again due to hardware. Many combini (convenience stores) and some fast food places have free wifi but you may have to subscribe (and use a translator!) to access this service. All airports have places and even vending machines where you can purchase a sim chip with a timed/capped service. You can also rent a cellphone while in your home country which will be shipped to the first place you stay at. 

Electric Charging

Earlier on there were outlets outside combini's but they started covering the plugs. Many of the new and refurbished combini and cafe's that have seating or even benches now have convenient plugs so you can charge your electrics and or power supply while you snack on combini goodness. Alas, with Covid-19 precautions, some seating may be closed. All hostels, ryokan, business hotels have convenient outlets in or nearby your sleeping unit. Japanese outlets accept plugs similar to US outlets but use 100V as opposed to 120V in the US. European outlets use 230V and will need an adaptor and possibly a step down transformer.

The larger airports in Japan with lounge areas and seating now have outlets and more than a few charging stations accessible to everyone(2023-I'm aware Narita Int'l does). 

2023 COVID-19 GUIDELINES Japan

Winter 2023 - Though Japan is fully open with no tourists restrictions, Japan has seen an increase in Covid-19 cases as the virus mutates. However many citizens and employees continue wearing masks at their place of employment and in public areas. 

Covid-19 is still prevalent and continues to mutate. If you have malaise, fever and or a bad cough, please refrain from travel and please wear masks as a preventative measure and a courtesy to others around you.  Be aware that the Covid-19 vaccines wane with time and the newest booster for the latest Covid-19 variants is available now in the United States.  

The Covid -19 guidelines are constantly in a state of flux so keep up with your embassy alerts and please adhere to restrictions and guidelines of individual businesses, public buildings and when using public and private transportation. Be healthy, be safe!

As per the U.S. CDC and US Department of State, (Spring, 2023) The country of Japan is at 'Level 1 - Exercise Normal Precautions.'

As per the Government of Japan, U.S. Citizens will be allowed entry. You may be asked to show a record of your Covid-19 vaccinations and boosters and flight layovers at different airports may have different restrictions. I recommend to have the latest boosters for your own personal safety.

I had a link from the Japan National Tourism Organization but they indicated after I had asked permission, that they allowed only "corporations and organizations at present" to post the link. It had Government measures, 24/7 Multilingual Medical Info support, travel safety tips and temporary closures of attractions and festivals. Hmm, I guess you'll have to look it up yourself, sorry about that!

POST NOTE

This Blogspot travel diary I post and update totally free of charge. I get no commissions from where I go or what I review.  All I ask is that you try and leave as minimal a footprint wherever you go in your travels, maybe even leave it cleaner then when you arrived.

However, If you would like to treat me to a cup of coffee, you can do it in the link below:

Ko-fi.com - Your Ko-fi

-INDEX-

Morioka to the Hachinohe Ferry

Again, following a locals recommendation panned out into smooth, fast roads which I took at leisure to enjoy the view. Two days ago, burning up the kilometers was fun and slightly justified for safety (three cyclists motoring together are more visible than one) as we were going through urban areas and there was some traffic from early evening commute hours.

Farm fields near Ohira

Showainari Shrine

In trying to get to Oshu, there weren't too many hostels or places to stay in these areas in my searches. Finding another Internet Cafe in Ichinoseki there was a mall nearby and I almost went into the Starbucks were it not full of weekend kids (It was Saturday night). Sitting outside waiting to see if the crowd would thin out, I took advantage of the wifi to catch up on a few e-mails and search to see if anything would open up in hostels. I was too late to notice the mall was closing to visit the supermarket inside to get some food for dinner. 

The internet cafe was noisy with a cacophony of digitized noises and darts hitting a board in the background and stinking of cigarettes. I got maybe 3 hours of sleep and was nauseous next morning  rolling northward but thankful for the fresh air and pleasant scenery.

Entering Morioka across the Kitakami river.

My next stop would be Hotel Kita Du Norde in Morioka. Lost again in trying to find the hotel, I wandered through Uchimaru Ryokuchi Kogen, taking pictures and imagining how pleasant it would be to live here with such a nice park nearby.

Uchimaru Ryokuchi Park, Morioka

Though indicated as a 'casual hotel', the check in area and personnel made it feel otherwise with a gentleman in a suit, who had helped me on the phone to find the location, walking outside to show me in its reserved car parking spot where to park my bicycle. I felt a bit out of place but appreciative of the attention and clean room that didn't smell of stale cigarettes with the solace that I would have enough rest to get to Hachinohe Ferry port.

Because Godzilla rules.

Pedaling out of Morioka on route 4 the elevation gradually rose to abut 500 meters. Almost all of the route from Saitama to Morioka never got higher than 120 meters. The gradual inclines had me barely notice the altitude until it started going downhill towards Ninohe. The road here seemed to be in bad condition from a combination of the northern winter climates as well as the laden trucks coming in and out of Hachinohe. 

As I tucked in for the downhills I went around several work crews repairing road sections. On one of the downhills I bottomed out on a pothole and got a slow leak from a rear pinch flat (My only flat tire in all of Japan) and lost precious daylight removing the panniers, tent and gear to get the rear wheel off to replace the tube. I was also worried that my mini pump would not be able to get sufficient air in my TLR Elite Duster rims which need the tire almost over inflated for the bead to sit properly in the rim. Using a bit of water to lubricate the bead, I pumped the tire up and heard the satisfying 'pop' as it seated.

Massive rock formations on route 4 entering Ninohe

With dusk fast approaching, I eventually found  my way to the outskirts of Sannohe and took route 224  through the suburbs to avoid the heavier night time traffic favoring route 4. Near the end of 224/104 some of the road seem to have been recently laid out with closed lanes and little to no traffic or street lights. I remember several times having to stop to make sure I was headed in the right direction and equally concerned about getting to the Ferry on time.

Rolling into Hachinohe Ferry port at 2100 (There were no street lights and the signage was not illuminated), I purchased my ticket and got on the queue at 2130 to board the largest and newest ferry I've sailed on.

My route Sendai to Hachinohe Port

-INDEX-

Otawara to Sendai / Internet Cafe's

Back on the efficient route 4 northbound, I latched on to two Japanese cyclists who were heading towards Sendai from Tokyo (?) riding Colnago Carbon bikes. Expediency, versatility and economy had one of them with a backpack and the other with a capacious seat dry bag and fannypack. They were definitely riding light. Though speaking little english, they were gracious enough to let me tag along drafting in the back and were motoring usually at 35-40 kph. On the steeper inclines they would slow down and wait as I caught up pulling my loaded panniers and bags. 

After about 45 minutes, I didn't want to slow them down and anyways I had to  locate my next stop which would be a designated campsite. I said thanks, goodbye and a kio-tsukete! (take care!) for good measure. We would meet again a few conbinis up the road.  

Asahi Brewery

On route 4 near Motomiya I passed these giant tanks which I had no clue at the time what they were but hindsight and google maps shows it to be huge vats from Asahi Brewery. Man, that's a lot of brewski!

At Motomiya I turned left, then back north on Nomen road which wound around a bit, stopped at a conbini for food and had a steep short climb looking for my campsite. I had planned this spot earlier but going deeper, could not find the campsite. The road climbed into an overgrown section that looked like it was damaged from earthquake or landslide deterioration.  At one point the overgrowth got so bad I dismounted and continued walking up till light started fading and the road showed no improving or the campsite. I went back, got my bicycle and went to a spot I had noticed earlier for a potential site, cleared a small spot of branches and set up my tent on a soft bed of fir. I cleared an area down to the soil, heated water for ramen and coffee and after my dinner, fell asleep to the sound of bats screeching high in the trees. 

Left shows the unused deteriorating, overgrown road with some rocks fallen from a slide. There were actually off road vehicle tracks which were maybe a week to 2 weeks old. The map on the right shows where I stayed and the missed campsite to the north.

My next place would be a place on the outskirts of Sendai. For some reason, I had gotten the days mixed up by 24 hours probably because I kept on figuring the hour/day back in the US on calls home. Though the host bent over backwards to try and accommodate me for my error, I told him not to worry as I found a few internet kissa nearby. I didn't bring up my error and just let  it go. To his credit, he later refunded the payment on my missed day.

Japan's 24 hour Internet Cafe's
Internet Cafe's in Japan that are open 24 hours are an emergency alternative to a rest stop. You will quite often see them being used by salarymen/women who live too far to get home after an overlong work day. They charge by the hour and you usually have to join a membership. They usually do not speak any english.  Depending on the place, it may or may not be quiet, some seem to have bad ventilation systems or filters that need changing. (Japanese are notorious cigarette smokers) As a slight consolation, all offer free tea, coffee, soda and sometimes ice cream. All sell ramen and sometimes have meals made which you can purchase and have delivered to your booth.  You can opt for a booth with a chair (sometimes a recliner) or a large cushioned booth almost large enough to lay down on. Some have showers, this one didn't. They have wifi, a PC for surfing (Japanese Windows) plugs to charge your electronics and headphones. The booths offer minimal privacy with short doors and sometimes windows that staff can look into for security.

Tired and wanting a hot shower, I rolled into Sendai hoping Miyagi Guest House would have a place in the late AM. Walking into the courtyard entrance I went to the front door and saw the dreaded "No Vacancy" sign, turned around and walked towards the street scanning my smartphone looking for other places. The host came outside and asking me if I had a reservation, he told me 'I was lucky in that there was one cancellation'. I stayed there two nights resting and walked into downtown to buy a good sleeping bag and a few other camping accessories in a Mont Bell store for the Hokkaido area as my sleeping bag liner would not suffice for the northern climes. 

Looking NNW on the Hirose Bridge in Minami-Sendai

Young female students crossing Miyazawa Bridge in Sendai with Naginata used for practice and discipline.

A unique Momentum Bicycle I spotted on one of my forays into Sendai. Momentum Bikes in the US are distributed by Giant dealers and are usually the lower end recreational models with cheaper stamped cranksets. 

My route Fuchu to Sendai

At Sendai I had originally planned going off to the east and follow the coast after another cycle tourist that had planned going that route. The host who was a man of few words, even less in english, and with a minute essence of pleasantness briefly suggested I should continue taking route 4. There was something in his demeanor that told me he knew what he was talking about and the next morning I rolled out following his recommendation.

-INDEX-

Shimotsuke to Otawara

Continuing on route 4, I made really good time because the roads were well maintained, sometimes newly paved and any hills were engineered with very gradual inclines a direct benefit to cars, commercial trucks and cyclists alike. My next reservation would be in a business hotel. I had sworn off AirBnB after having such an unpleasant experience. (A week later, AirBnB would refund my payment).

I think this was City Hall in Shimotsuke

There were a lot of curiously playful giant jellybeans on it's lawn,

And finally my pleasant room in Select Inn Nishinasuno Ekimae Hotel in Otawara.

Left is a business shrine just outside the Hotel.

The business hotel was a little aged with wifi only available in the common area by the check in desk. It made up for it by having a complementary delicious coffee machine to sip java while doing some needed surfing. The front common area was brightly lit and welcoming with a bakery and sweet shop right across the street and the Shinkansen station was just out the door and to the right.

-INDEX-

Fuchu to Saitama

Hotel Livemax Annex in Fuchu looked like a business hotel with tiny rooms. There was no place to lock and park my bicycle but with a bit of guesswork with the young non-english speaking check in person and a map, I found that to my relief there was paid bicycle parking 2 blocks away under cover and with a 24 hour security guard. After securing my bicycle I thanked my cycle tourist friend for his guidance around the west and said goodbye as he pedaled home with about 30 minutes of daylight left. At the hotel there were no 'non-smoking' rooms available and the room smelled of stale cigarette smoke even with the AC going. The room, and bed sheets were clean though and there was a small private bathroom with a deep tub to soak in. (these are great after a long days ride). 

In the morning, I gathered all my gear checking out glad to breath the fresh air outside, turned in my parking stub paying the nominal parking fee and pedaled out of Fuchu towards Saitama.

Route 17 towards Saitama

I recently found out that Japanese Fire Engines are custom ordered. Each station department has specifications and needs towards the city they serve which are ordered  and specially assembled for them. So every time you go by a Japanese Fire station you are looking at a customized vehicle. I saw quite a few stations going through Japan and half of the stations I saw were always doing some form of training. 

Saitama looked like a nice suburban town and it seemed to bode well for my next AirBnB reservation...

Warning: Explicit lyrics..

While I was trying to figure out how to get into the place, a few neighbors were out and about tiding up their areas, avoiding eye contact and muttering under their breath '..it's difficult..'  I went to the local supermarket to get food and asked AirBnB if this was the right address. When I informed them of the condition, they said they would try to find me another place which I thought very unlikely considering the area and the sun fast setting on the horizon. I was even thinking of wild camping in a local park until I heard rain drops on the some of the corrugated tin outside. It still smelled of a sort of a latex gesso haphazardly painted in places. The wiring was wretchedly old worrying me of a short and possibly a fire. The one saving grace was that the drafty bathroom had hot water, the upstairs main room had a tatami floor and the room closet had futon and pillows seemingly thrown in there by a prior guest wanting to leave quickly. 

As I left the next late morning, I folded all the futon and comforters, closed the gate filled with bugs and overgrown weeds and gladly pedaled away and wondered what a stark contrast compared to my AirBnB experience in Oiso..

I'll not name the place on the off chance that it may have 'improved'.  I'll be honest, I would have loved to own a place like that and make improvements. Some would say things like  it's a 'diamond in the rough'. I would say it's more like the piece of coal...

AirBnB guest beware, there apparently is no one screening these places. As the Willy Nelson song goes "Some days are Diamond, some days are stone.."

..spotted further down the road behind a locked gate but thought this is a good place for this picture..

-INDEX-

Shinkansen to Odawara Pedaling to Oiso then Fuchu.

Bicycles on board the Shinkansen

For those that have not traveled on Japan's Shinkansen, it is spacious, clean, very smooth and super fast. Some have cart service with food, snacks and drink but most of the time commuters purchase a bento meal at or near the station.

Shinkansen from Nagoya to Odawara

Getting aboard the Shinkansen with your bicycle is a complicated affair. You must disassemble it so that when it is fully bagged, the bicycle must fit in the space behind the last three seats in the rear of the car. (basically remove front wheel and maybe handlebar/pedals). Because the environment, station, train and commuters are very clean, the bicycle needs to be as fully covered as possible. You must inform the ticket agent that you have a bicycle ('Jitensha') and will be charged accordingly. The ticket price varies according to distance traveled, reserved/non reserved and sometimes class. There are smoking and non-smoking cars. You will hand your ticket to the gate agent and use the wide ticket gate usually on the far right side to get your bicycle through to the platform. The platform usually has numerical signs associated to the number on the train car which will also be annotated on your ticket. If you are not sure, have your ticket in hand and ask a  platform agent. A reserved seat will usually have you seated in front of or very near your bicycle. 

Keep in mind that the Shinkansen is on a very tight schedule so boarding and disembarking must be done in a timely manner. Having panniers and bags will have you hustling to get all your things so it is important to prepare ahead of time. For example, I have my rear panniers and front drybags lashed together with several fastex straps. Sometimes I can fashion the straps into a backpack harness. Quite a few Japanese cyclist have opted for folding or compact bicycles which require minimal disassembly and take up very little space on the train as well as in the garage or house. 

Shinkansen Nagoya to Odawara

So, I got onboard the Shinkansen to relax for the short ride which would take several hours. It was overcast and got thicker as the day progressed and was unfortunate as I had hoped in missing seeing Fuji-san from afar on bicycle, (I climbed Mt Fuji and saw my gorraiko in 2014) I might see it from the train. It was not meant to be. A bit sad, I nonetheless enjoyed the ride into Odawara.

At Odawara I disembarked, reassembled my bicycle and rode 17 km on newly paved roads to my AirBnB at dusk. I had the hardest time finding it as the house was in the center of a group of houses with a small path going out towards the street and the map apps had the location in the wrong place. With the exception of a few missing cooking utensils, It was a very nice place including very high speed internet.  After two nights I left late Sunday morning thanking my very gracious host.

Self-made meal

The above was made from groceries at the local market my first night. Not as tasty lacking any spices and creativity but having the nutrients that I craved. The 'dog food' like substance was Hormels from a can. 

Conveyor belt sushi

The next night I ate a little better. My cycle tourist friend treated me to a Conveyor belt sushi place. It was very different, fun and much more flavorful! The prices weren't too bad either. 

I pedaled off late Sunday morning following a shoreside bikepath with trees on both sides. I made good time until pedestrian traffic all of a sudden got so dense I nearly ran down a beautiful Labrador retriever.  There was apparently a large festival by the harbor and the streets, sidewalks and paths were full of people, families and even surfers cycling to the beach with their boards on special mounts. I turned north away from the festival and took the first main street east to rendezvous with my friend. He then lead me North and we finally arrived in Fuchu late in the evening but not before I returned the dinner favor and treated him to lunch earlier at Denny's.  Denny's in Japan though having the similar 'look' to what we are familiar with in the US has a menu which is eastern influenced and incredibly tasty. I had 'Karaage' which was Japanese styled, very tender, white meat fried chicken. 

Cycling west around Tokyo.

My route Oiso to Fuchu

-INDEX-